Fortified wines are wines that have had alcohol, in the form of grape spirit, added at some point in their fermentation process thus making them stronger than light wines. But first off, what is fermentation? This is Nature's wondrous gift, where (in simple terms) yeast consumes sugar and produces alcohol as a by-product of this process, along with a few other things, such as glycerol and carbon dioxide. By and large this is a controlled reaction which results in wines not exceeding 14% or 15% alcohol, though the average is usually closer to 12.5 to 13.5%. Most yeasts cannot tolerate an environment containing greater than 16% alcohol, and will effectively die.
So, when is this grape spirit added? Well, it depends. There are two main methods, loosely called the port method and the sherry method. In the former, the spirit is added before fermentation has naturally finished (i.e. when not all the sugar has been consumed, and when the alcohol strength is at about 8%), and the wine is fortified up to a level of between 16 - 20%. So you are left with a strong wine that still contains a lot of sugar, or sweetness. The character of the wine is then developed by various forms of ageing and maturing. This method is used for Port, most Madeira, Vins Doux Naturels, Australian liqueur Muscat, and other styles. In some cases the spirit is added even before fermentation has begun, leaving you with what is basically alcoholic grape juice (often called Mistelle or Vin de Liqueur).
The sherry method adds fortification after fermentation has completed, either to 15.5% or 17.5% depending on the wine style and ageing process being utilised, which once again determines the final character of the wine. This method is used for most sherries and dry Madeiras (Sercial). It's worth noting that when some intensely sweet grapes are used (such as Pedro Ximenes or PX) there may be sugars left even after fermentation has completed - too much for the yeast to deal with.
These wines will partner an astonishing array of foods both sweet and savoury (sherry is great with tapas), though note that fortified wines are very strong and should be treated with respect. They are also quite different to sweet wines such as Sauternes, which are unfortified.
Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Thursday, 28 August 2008
To Age Or Not To Age
A lot of people ask about how long to keep wine – the vintage date alone does not give you the answer. There are guidelines but wine is not a precise science - more a matter of personal preference. The vast majority of wines these days are made to be drunk straight off the shelf, but ultimately it is up to you to decide when you drink your wines. Here are a few useful rules of thumb.
How long should white wines be kept?
Most white wines (particularly inexpensive bottles) are best drunk as young as possible - certainly within a year or two of the vintage. Their appeal is in their freshness and fruitiness - leave them for much longer and those lovely fresh flavours fade away. There are exceptions however. Full-bodied whites like top-quality burgundies, other big chardonnays and fine rieslings will usually gain complexity with age. Sweet semillons (Sauternes and the like) and other quality dessert wines also reward keeping. Good vintage champagnes (though not most NVs) evolve nicely in the bottle, and top chenin blanc wines often have very good staying power
Don't you have to keep red wines for years ?
In general no, not for the vast majority these days ... though, again, it depends. Red wines contain more tannin, the stuff that's also present in long-brewed tea. It comes mainly from the grape skins and acts as the wine's perfect natural preservative. You know when tannin is present because of its uncanny mouth-drying effect. Big traditional reds (like those from some of Bordeaux's greatest estates) can have masses of tannin and do need to be stored for many years before they are soft enough to drink. The fruit mellows, all sorts of other strange, complex flavours start developing, and the tannins may start clumping together to drop out and form a harmless sediment. The myth that all red wines must be aged to be drinkable stems from these old traditional methods of winemaking.
Which reds are ready to drink straight away?
Today people know how to make wine without much tannin and most is perfect for drinking quite soon after the vintage. Many New World makers are masters of this rounded, fruit-driven style ... but they are by no means alone. In France - Beaujolais, the Loire, the Rhône, and many areas of the south all produce lovely, early-drinking reds as do the more progressive estates of Spain and Italy.
So, there are no firm rules?
Afraid not. If a wine is well made it will not fall apart at some pre-determined date in the future. It’s true that the more expensive, quality wines are usually the ones that will improve over time, but try to develop your own gauges. When you taste a wine, do you think it’s out of balance (think about the acidity, tannin, fruit flavours), and do you think this will level out with age? But try not to let it go over the top.
Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
How long should white wines be kept?
Most white wines (particularly inexpensive bottles) are best drunk as young as possible - certainly within a year or two of the vintage. Their appeal is in their freshness and fruitiness - leave them for much longer and those lovely fresh flavours fade away. There are exceptions however. Full-bodied whites like top-quality burgundies, other big chardonnays and fine rieslings will usually gain complexity with age. Sweet semillons (Sauternes and the like) and other quality dessert wines also reward keeping. Good vintage champagnes (though not most NVs) evolve nicely in the bottle, and top chenin blanc wines often have very good staying power
Don't you have to keep red wines for years ?
In general no, not for the vast majority these days ... though, again, it depends. Red wines contain more tannin, the stuff that's also present in long-brewed tea. It comes mainly from the grape skins and acts as the wine's perfect natural preservative. You know when tannin is present because of its uncanny mouth-drying effect. Big traditional reds (like those from some of Bordeaux's greatest estates) can have masses of tannin and do need to be stored for many years before they are soft enough to drink. The fruit mellows, all sorts of other strange, complex flavours start developing, and the tannins may start clumping together to drop out and form a harmless sediment. The myth that all red wines must be aged to be drinkable stems from these old traditional methods of winemaking.
Which reds are ready to drink straight away?
Today people know how to make wine without much tannin and most is perfect for drinking quite soon after the vintage. Many New World makers are masters of this rounded, fruit-driven style ... but they are by no means alone. In France - Beaujolais, the Loire, the Rhône, and many areas of the south all produce lovely, early-drinking reds as do the more progressive estates of Spain and Italy.
So, there are no firm rules?
Afraid not. If a wine is well made it will not fall apart at some pre-determined date in the future. It’s true that the more expensive, quality wines are usually the ones that will improve over time, but try to develop your own gauges. When you taste a wine, do you think it’s out of balance (think about the acidity, tannin, fruit flavours), and do you think this will level out with age? But try not to let it go over the top.
Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Wednesday, 27 August 2008
Champagne vs Sparkling
Only sparkling wine made in Champagne can be called champagne. They're pretty fussy about that. We used to see the term "methode champenoise" on a bottle of sparkling from elsewhere, but now the most that's allowed is "methode traditionelle", or possibly "methode classique". Funny thing is, much fizz from around the world is made in exactly the same way as champagne, and often with the same grapes - Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay - or some variation of these. And a lot of it is excellent stuff, rivalling the genuine article.
Take English sparkling wine for example. Much of the geology of southern England is just the same as in Champagne, and the climate's not dissimilar. They're making some top quality fizz now, and in recent international blind tastings have been winning plenty of awards - in competition with champagne. Recommended wines: Nyetimber, Ridgeview, and Camel Valley. Or how about a Cremant de Bourgogne - same grapes, slightly lower bottling pressure (hence Cremant), soft and delicious. Recommended wine: Louis Bouillot Perle de Vigne Grand Reserve. And another Old World favourite,at a great price, Cava from Spain. Usually different grapes, but some with the same varieties, and all made in champagne method. Recommended wine: Codorniu Reserva Raventos (chardonnay, from the oldest cava making house in Spain).
The New World makes some stunners too - particularly Lindauer from New Zealand, their Brut and Rose being outstanding value. And you could have a look at South Africa - Graham Beck being a good starting point.
These are just a few suggestions - there are many others (and indeed fizz made by other methods which are also great, eg Prosecco). The thing is, if you tried blind tasting a few, could you tell the difference? And could you guess the price points? A high quality vintage champagne may stand out, for various reasons (style, intensity of lees aroma, length), but try a few NVs against competition from around the world and see how you fare. You might be surprised.
Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Take English sparkling wine for example. Much of the geology of southern England is just the same as in Champagne, and the climate's not dissimilar. They're making some top quality fizz now, and in recent international blind tastings have been winning plenty of awards - in competition with champagne. Recommended wines: Nyetimber, Ridgeview, and Camel Valley. Or how about a Cremant de Bourgogne - same grapes, slightly lower bottling pressure (hence Cremant), soft and delicious. Recommended wine: Louis Bouillot Perle de Vigne Grand Reserve. And another Old World favourite,at a great price, Cava from Spain. Usually different grapes, but some with the same varieties, and all made in champagne method. Recommended wine: Codorniu Reserva Raventos (chardonnay, from the oldest cava making house in Spain).
The New World makes some stunners too - particularly Lindauer from New Zealand, their Brut and Rose being outstanding value. And you could have a look at South Africa - Graham Beck being a good starting point.
These are just a few suggestions - there are many others (and indeed fizz made by other methods which are also great, eg Prosecco). The thing is, if you tried blind tasting a few, could you tell the difference? And could you guess the price points? A high quality vintage champagne may stand out, for various reasons (style, intensity of lees aroma, length), but try a few NVs against competition from around the world and see how you fare. You might be surprised.
Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Wednesday, 20 August 2008
Closures And Openings
Corks aren't essential for most wines, only perhaps those venerable bottles that you want to keep for a decade or so. Most would very likely be better serviced with a screw cap. But corks make wine different ... they are part of the romance and ceremony of opening a bottle.
Corks, however, can also contain bacteria which bring with them unwanted musty flavours that spoil a wine (cork taint, which smells like damp, mouldy cardboard), so there has been much research into finding an alternative. Screw caps are very good, and convenient, and synthetic stoppers are OK for wines meant to be drunk young. But for wines that need to lay down and mature over a long period, the natural cork is probably still the best, since it allows minute amounts of oxygen through to the wine, which in turn contributes to the maturation process.
Opening still wine
For both natural and synthetic corks, a good corkscrew is essential. A poor one will tear the middle out of a cork and may hurt your hand. A good one will have a comfortable grip, use counter-pressure against the rim of the bottle and the screw will have an open spiral with a clear line of sight up the middle, to grip as much cork as possible.
Incidentally, a ragged-edged capsule, where the cork has been pulled through, spoils the look of things. To avoid this, simply cut a circle just below the ridge on the neck of the bottle and remove. If there is any mould, wipe it away and don't worry about it!
Opening Sparkling Wine
There’s the Formula 1 way (wasteful and messy), the sabrage method using a sword (not to be recommended unless you really know how - and messy), and the best way, as follows:
Corks, however, can also contain bacteria which bring with them unwanted musty flavours that spoil a wine (cork taint, which smells like damp, mouldy cardboard), so there has been much research into finding an alternative. Screw caps are very good, and convenient, and synthetic stoppers are OK for wines meant to be drunk young. But for wines that need to lay down and mature over a long period, the natural cork is probably still the best, since it allows minute amounts of oxygen through to the wine, which in turn contributes to the maturation process.
Opening still wine
For both natural and synthetic corks, a good corkscrew is essential. A poor one will tear the middle out of a cork and may hurt your hand. A good one will have a comfortable grip, use counter-pressure against the rim of the bottle and the screw will have an open spiral with a clear line of sight up the middle, to grip as much cork as possible.
Incidentally, a ragged-edged capsule, where the cork has been pulled through, spoils the look of things. To avoid this, simply cut a circle just below the ridge on the neck of the bottle and remove. If there is any mould, wipe it away and don't worry about it!
Opening Sparkling Wine
There’s the Formula 1 way (wasteful and messy), the sabrage method using a sword (not to be recommended unless you really know how - and messy), and the best way, as follows:
- Chill the wine well and don't shake the bottle - the wine will taste better and more will stay in the bottle.
- Once the wire cage is removed, keep your thumb over the cork at all times and never point it at anything precious.
- Twist the bottle, not the cork, and remove it slowly so there is a sigh, not a loud pop, as you open the bottle
- Finally, to serve with style, put your thumb up the 'punt' (the dimple at the bottom of the bottle) and pour slowly.
Tasting Wine
Anyone who enjoys a glass of wine can taste wine 'properly', it’s not just for privileged palates. All it takes is a little extra concentration and a few pointers on what to look for. If you can, it’s best to use a glass with a bowl shaped base that narrows towards the top to concentrate the aromas.
Appearance
Hold your glass, about a third full, at an angle of about 45° against a white surface and look at the colour at the rim and at the centre. A young red will have a pinkish-purple rim, an old wine a tawny-brown edge. A light-bodied red will be less deep in colour at the centre than a fuller-bodied one. Crisp, light whites will be pale straw in hue, older, richer or sweeter whites are more golden. Generally, white wines turn more yellow or golden with age, while red wines turn more brown. You can also check the “legs” – give the wine a swirl and then look for trails of liquid sticking to the side of the glass as it settles. These are the “legs”. As wine ferments alcohol is created, along with glycerol – the more of the former, the more of the latter. In other words, “good legs” gripping the glass indicate a strong wine.
Aroma
The bouquet of a wine is even more important than its taste - as more than half of its flavour is contained in its volatile aromas. Your mouth can only detect sweet, sour, salt and bitter tastes, all the flavour is up in your olfactory lobe. Draw a couple of imaginary circles with your glass on a flat surface to swirl the wine around. Then sniff, letting the aromas rise towards your nostrils. Your first impression will always be the strongest; after that your nose will gradually tire.
Taste
Then take a good sip - taking in enough wine to bathe the whole of your mouth. Notice its initial taste (its attack), what flavours develop next (its middle palate) and its finish. How long do the flavours last? Is it a young tannic red wine with enough fruit to age or a smooth, fruity red for drinking now? Are the rich flavours of a white wine balanced by enough acidity, or is the acidity of a fresh white balanced by sufficient fruit?
Hints
Most of your tasting will occur as part of your drinking - you will hopefully just notice more of the flavours in your glass. However, for a more formal tasting:
Appearance
Hold your glass, about a third full, at an angle of about 45° against a white surface and look at the colour at the rim and at the centre. A young red will have a pinkish-purple rim, an old wine a tawny-brown edge. A light-bodied red will be less deep in colour at the centre than a fuller-bodied one. Crisp, light whites will be pale straw in hue, older, richer or sweeter whites are more golden. Generally, white wines turn more yellow or golden with age, while red wines turn more brown. You can also check the “legs” – give the wine a swirl and then look for trails of liquid sticking to the side of the glass as it settles. These are the “legs”. As wine ferments alcohol is created, along with glycerol – the more of the former, the more of the latter. In other words, “good legs” gripping the glass indicate a strong wine.
Aroma
The bouquet of a wine is even more important than its taste - as more than half of its flavour is contained in its volatile aromas. Your mouth can only detect sweet, sour, salt and bitter tastes, all the flavour is up in your olfactory lobe. Draw a couple of imaginary circles with your glass on a flat surface to swirl the wine around. Then sniff, letting the aromas rise towards your nostrils. Your first impression will always be the strongest; after that your nose will gradually tire.
Taste
Then take a good sip - taking in enough wine to bathe the whole of your mouth. Notice its initial taste (its attack), what flavours develop next (its middle palate) and its finish. How long do the flavours last? Is it a young tannic red wine with enough fruit to age or a smooth, fruity red for drinking now? Are the rich flavours of a white wine balanced by enough acidity, or is the acidity of a fresh white balanced by sufficient fruit?
Hints
Most of your tasting will occur as part of your drinking - you will hopefully just notice more of the flavours in your glass. However, for a more formal tasting:
- Use a room with plenty of daylight, so you get a true picture of a wine's colour.
- Don't try to smell and taste wine in an atmosphere heavy in smoke or scent.
- You don't need to spit out your precious samples, but your head won't be clear for long!
- Dispense with all food except dry water biscuits.
Storing Wine
Not many people are lucky enough to have cellars, and special temperature controlled cabinets are expensive. But following a few simple guidelines will help keep your wines in good condition, even those that do not need time in bottle.
Why bother storing a wine?
Any wine will benefit from a little rest between its journey to you and being opened, if you’re ordering a delivery. It's often not a question of ageing, since the vast majority of wines these days are made to be drunk straight off the shelf, it’s just giving a living organism time to settle. Being patient can be difficult, especially if it's a wine you've never tried before, but wine is not at its best after a long trip. A good plan is to keep some stock at home rather than jump straight into a new case.
Where should I keep a small stock of wine?
Wherever you like, as long as it is not at the mercy of strong light and extremes of temperature. If you want to keep your wines more than a couple of months or so, lay the bottles horizontally so the corks don't dry out, which might let the air in and spoil the wine. Ideally, keep your bottles out of direct sunlight, away from vibration and at a constant temperature. The exact degree is not so important, as long as it's somewhere sensible between freezing and 65° F/18° C! Try to ensure it’s a dark place away from hot water pipes or heaters, so attics or greenhouses are both non-starters. Under stairs, the bottom of cupboards or small spare rooms are all popular resting places for wine and insulation will help to maintain a more constant temperature. Keeping your wines in their box is not a bad idea either - the cardboard does a reasonable insulating job and the bottles are away from bright light, but racks are great of course.
What about fine wines that need keeping for years?
For long term storage, frankly, unless you have a cellar or somewhere with cellar-like conditions (a constant cool temperature and humidity) it would be better to have your wines professionally stored. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Why bother storing a wine?
Any wine will benefit from a little rest between its journey to you and being opened, if you’re ordering a delivery. It's often not a question of ageing, since the vast majority of wines these days are made to be drunk straight off the shelf, it’s just giving a living organism time to settle. Being patient can be difficult, especially if it's a wine you've never tried before, but wine is not at its best after a long trip. A good plan is to keep some stock at home rather than jump straight into a new case.
Where should I keep a small stock of wine?
Wherever you like, as long as it is not at the mercy of strong light and extremes of temperature. If you want to keep your wines more than a couple of months or so, lay the bottles horizontally so the corks don't dry out, which might let the air in and spoil the wine. Ideally, keep your bottles out of direct sunlight, away from vibration and at a constant temperature. The exact degree is not so important, as long as it's somewhere sensible between freezing and 65° F/18° C! Try to ensure it’s a dark place away from hot water pipes or heaters, so attics or greenhouses are both non-starters. Under stairs, the bottom of cupboards or small spare rooms are all popular resting places for wine and insulation will help to maintain a more constant temperature. Keeping your wines in their box is not a bad idea either - the cardboard does a reasonable insulating job and the bottles are away from bright light, but racks are great of course.
What about fine wines that need keeping for years?
For long term storage, frankly, unless you have a cellar or somewhere with cellar-like conditions (a constant cool temperature and humidity) it would be better to have your wines professionally stored. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Tuesday, 19 August 2008
Old World New World
I often get asked “what’s the best wine you’ve ever had?” This is one of those questions. Whilst I’ve indulged in my share of Sassicaia, Yquem, Chateau Margaux etc, it’s just not that simple - place, people, food, ambience all play a big part. And incidentally those were all big name, Old World wines I mentioned, which brings up an interesting point. Old or New – what’s your poison, and what’s the difference?
In wine terms Old World/New World tends to mean Europe and everywhere else. Some people insist that Old World wines are more complex, foody wines, whereas New World are more lusty and fruit forward, often with too much alcohol. Well, this can be true. But if you called in at a tiny little winery not far from Melbourne airport called Craiglee, ignored the usual ‘closed’ sign, and banged on a barn door till Patrick appeared, you might be fortunate enough to sample one of the subtlest, softest glasses of Shiraz imaginable. Or take New Zealand, where people such as Felton Road or Mount Difficulty are producing complex, gamey Pinot Noirs to challenge anything from Burgundy. Similarly, some organic Coyam from Chile will stun you with its earthy depth and length, (and also happens to go quite nicely with very dark chocolate, funnily enough).
You can pick out obvious contrasts such as a gooseberry-laden, zingy Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in NZ, vs a flinty, lemony Sancerre, or indeed a surprisingly full Ronco del Betulle from Friuli – all the same grape, but quite different. But the truth is, there are great wines to be had all over the globe. A couple of things are certain. New World wines will tend to be labelled with the grape variety, whereas Old World wines usually state the place name – you have to know your grapes! Also the Old World’s attitude has traditionally been “we make this wine, it’s up to you if you like it..”, whilst the New World tends to make wines they know people want.
One really exciting region to explore is the Languedoc. Small producers, often free of AC strictures, able to experiment and develop highly individual, and attractive wines at amazing prices. Recommended wines: Chateau de Pennautier AOC Cabardes Collection Privee 2003; La Sauvageonne Pica Broca AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 2004
But I remember a beautiful evening in a tiny restaurant somewhere in rural Provence, with the best of friends, local food and local wines that had no pretensions and cost peanuts. Without question some of the best wines I ever had.
Tip.
Letting a wine ‘breathe’ for a bit before drinking by just uncorking it is a bit of an old wives tale. Not enough surface area for the oxygen to work on the wine. Pour it out into a decanter or jug, with lots of air, and this will help smooth the acids and tannins in a hurry, giving you a more mellow glassful. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
In wine terms Old World/New World tends to mean Europe and everywhere else. Some people insist that Old World wines are more complex, foody wines, whereas New World are more lusty and fruit forward, often with too much alcohol. Well, this can be true. But if you called in at a tiny little winery not far from Melbourne airport called Craiglee, ignored the usual ‘closed’ sign, and banged on a barn door till Patrick appeared, you might be fortunate enough to sample one of the subtlest, softest glasses of Shiraz imaginable. Or take New Zealand, where people such as Felton Road or Mount Difficulty are producing complex, gamey Pinot Noirs to challenge anything from Burgundy. Similarly, some organic Coyam from Chile will stun you with its earthy depth and length, (and also happens to go quite nicely with very dark chocolate, funnily enough).
You can pick out obvious contrasts such as a gooseberry-laden, zingy Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in NZ, vs a flinty, lemony Sancerre, or indeed a surprisingly full Ronco del Betulle from Friuli – all the same grape, but quite different. But the truth is, there are great wines to be had all over the globe. A couple of things are certain. New World wines will tend to be labelled with the grape variety, whereas Old World wines usually state the place name – you have to know your grapes! Also the Old World’s attitude has traditionally been “we make this wine, it’s up to you if you like it..”, whilst the New World tends to make wines they know people want.
One really exciting region to explore is the Languedoc. Small producers, often free of AC strictures, able to experiment and develop highly individual, and attractive wines at amazing prices. Recommended wines: Chateau de Pennautier AOC Cabardes Collection Privee 2003; La Sauvageonne Pica Broca AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 2004
But I remember a beautiful evening in a tiny restaurant somewhere in rural Provence, with the best of friends, local food and local wines that had no pretensions and cost peanuts. Without question some of the best wines I ever had.
Tip.
Letting a wine ‘breathe’ for a bit before drinking by just uncorking it is a bit of an old wives tale. Not enough surface area for the oxygen to work on the wine. Pour it out into a decanter or jug, with lots of air, and this will help smooth the acids and tannins in a hurry, giving you a more mellow glassful. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Something For The English Summer?
It’s hard to beat an English summer’s day – and equally hard to remember one sometimes. But no – the lightest of breezes, new mown grass, leather on willow - and when the barbie lights up, what will you be drinking? Often a cold beer is just the job, but what about wine? Rosé perhaps? No, don’t turn your nose up at the thought – by far the fastest growing wine style in the UK market is rosé, resulting in winemakers putting a lot more thought into it. Maybe some fizz, a chilled, bright white, or indeed a chunky red?
Well what I’m going to suggest may have some purists reaching for something to steady themselves, but read on anyway. For English summers, try English wine. I don’t mean exclusively of course, and not all English wine is worth the effort (in fact a lot of it isn’t). But there are over 300 vineyards throughout the UK, and some of them are producing very good stuff. You can forget the chunky reds (we don’t have the heat for them), but examples of fizz, white and rosé may really surprise you.
Geologically much of southern England is the same as Champagne in northern France, and the climate’s not dissimilar. They’ve recently had to expand the AC region of Champagne due to demand, but why not give English sparkling a try? The best is made in exactly the same way as champagne, with the same grapes, and in recent international blind tastings it’s been winning plenty of awards. Of course they’re not allowed to call it champagne (because it’s not made there), only ‘méthode traditionelle’. Recommended wines: Camel Valley, Nyetimber, or Ridgeview.
Good rosé has the grapes macerating on the red skins for a short while to get that lovely colour, before draining off – unlike a lot of rosé champagne which has a splash of red added and then ups the price for pinkness. Chapel Down English Rose from Kent fills the mouth with freshness, and almost has summer strawberries jumping out of the glass. For white, look for a grape called Bacchus (again Camel Valley’s a good bet), which will zing your taste buds like a decent sauvignon, and show well balanced fruit.
I’m not saying all English wine is great, just suggesting you give some a go. Waitrose stocks quite a bit, and there’s Booths Wine online – or why not visit one of the vineyards for a (hopefully sunny) day out.
Tip
The kitchen’s not a great place to store wine - too many extremes. It doesn’t have to be a cellar, but somewhere with an even temperature and little light is best. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
Well what I’m going to suggest may have some purists reaching for something to steady themselves, but read on anyway. For English summers, try English wine. I don’t mean exclusively of course, and not all English wine is worth the effort (in fact a lot of it isn’t). But there are over 300 vineyards throughout the UK, and some of them are producing very good stuff. You can forget the chunky reds (we don’t have the heat for them), but examples of fizz, white and rosé may really surprise you.
Geologically much of southern England is the same as Champagne in northern France, and the climate’s not dissimilar. They’ve recently had to expand the AC region of Champagne due to demand, but why not give English sparkling a try? The best is made in exactly the same way as champagne, with the same grapes, and in recent international blind tastings it’s been winning plenty of awards. Of course they’re not allowed to call it champagne (because it’s not made there), only ‘méthode traditionelle’. Recommended wines: Camel Valley, Nyetimber, or Ridgeview.
Good rosé has the grapes macerating on the red skins for a short while to get that lovely colour, before draining off – unlike a lot of rosé champagne which has a splash of red added and then ups the price for pinkness. Chapel Down English Rose from Kent fills the mouth with freshness, and almost has summer strawberries jumping out of the glass. For white, look for a grape called Bacchus (again Camel Valley’s a good bet), which will zing your taste buds like a decent sauvignon, and show well balanced fruit.
I’m not saying all English wine is great, just suggesting you give some a go. Waitrose stocks quite a bit, and there’s Booths Wine online – or why not visit one of the vineyards for a (hopefully sunny) day out.
Tip
The kitchen’s not a great place to store wine - too many extremes. It doesn’t have to be a cellar, but somewhere with an even temperature and little light is best. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape
A Little Spanish
Every now and then all is right with the world. It might be for only a moment – but such moments will always stay with you. Lets say you chance on a tiny little restaurant called “Dos Hermanos” baking in the Andalucian sun. You settle yourself in the shade of the vines, and one of the brothers (both in their sixties) limps out to tell you what’s available on the menu (most of it isn’t). So you agree to his choice, and he limps off into the kitchen to shout at his sibling. After dozing for a while with a half-hearted cicada for company, he reappears carrying a large platter of the most supremely fresh sole “a la plancha”, potatoes in olive oil, salad, and a bottle of crisp, chilled, aromatic Albarino (again his choice). It’s all so simple and delicious there’s only one option – you order more, plumply content and at peace with the world.
Mention Spain in a wine context, and a lot of people will think ‘Rioja’. Fair enough, there are some excellent Riojas with distinctive characteristics stemming from their strict rules of maturation, as in Crianza (nursery), Reserva, and Gran Reserva which all refer to age. But there are other fantastic wines and regions in Spain worth exploring – Priorato, Navarra, Penedes, Bierzo, Costers del Segre, and Ribera del Duero to name but a few. Or how about a Gewurztraminer from Somontano?
Albarino is produced in Rias Baixas, in Galicia, the green and fertile north west of Spain, where Atlantic breezes temper the climate, there’s plenty of rain to water the land, and the sea provides riches for the table. Raise a glass and aromas of peach, apricot, pear and citrus suggest something exotic, whilst the crisp, dry finish surprises with its freshness. It's the perfect partner to seafood, and is meant to be drunk young – as are most white wines by the way, so as to fully enjoy their zest and fruitiness.
Plus there’s cava and sherry. The former largely made in exactly the same way as champagne, but most often with Spanish grapes, can be a cracking little celebratory tipple, at a celebratory price too if you choose wisely - though quality does vary. The latter a very special, often underrated drink, made in it’s own unique way - see post on fortified wines.
Mention Spain in a wine context, and a lot of people will think ‘Rioja’. Fair enough, there are some excellent Riojas with distinctive characteristics stemming from their strict rules of maturation, as in Crianza (nursery), Reserva, and Gran Reserva which all refer to age. But there are other fantastic wines and regions in Spain worth exploring – Priorato, Navarra, Penedes, Bierzo, Costers del Segre, and Ribera del Duero to name but a few. Or how about a Gewurztraminer from Somontano?
Albarino is produced in Rias Baixas, in Galicia, the green and fertile north west of Spain, where Atlantic breezes temper the climate, there’s plenty of rain to water the land, and the sea provides riches for the table. Raise a glass and aromas of peach, apricot, pear and citrus suggest something exotic, whilst the crisp, dry finish surprises with its freshness. It's the perfect partner to seafood, and is meant to be drunk young – as are most white wines by the way, so as to fully enjoy their zest and fruitiness.
Plus there’s cava and sherry. The former largely made in exactly the same way as champagne, but most often with Spanish grapes, can be a cracking little celebratory tipple, at a celebratory price too if you choose wisely - though quality does vary. The latter a very special, often underrated drink, made in it’s own unique way - see post on fortified wines.
From as elegant and light-footed as a matador, to as beefy and potent as the bull itself, the wines of Spain can offer it all.
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