Old World New World

I often get asked “what’s the best wine you’ve ever had?” This is one of those questions. Whilst I’ve indulged in my share of Sassicaia, Yquem, Chateau Margaux etc, it’s just not that simple - place, people, food, ambience all play a big part. And incidentally those were all big name, Old World wines I mentioned, which brings up an interesting point. Old or New – what’s your poison, and what’s the difference?

In wine terms Old World/New World tends to mean Europe and everywhere else. Some people insist that Old World wines are more complex, foody wines, whereas New World are more lusty and fruit forward, often with too much alcohol. Well, this can be true. But if you called in at a tiny little winery not far from Melbourne airport called Craiglee, ignored the usual ‘closed’ sign, and banged on a barn door till Patrick appeared, you might be fortunate enough to sample one of the subtlest, softest glasses of Shiraz imaginable. Or take New Zealand, where people such as Felton Road or Mount Difficulty are producing complex, gamey Pinot Noirs to challenge anything from Burgundy. Similarly, some organic Coyam from Chile will stun you with its earthy depth and length, (and also happens to go quite nicely with very dark chocolate, funnily enough).

You can pick out obvious contrasts such as a gooseberry-laden, zingy Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in NZ, vs a flinty, lemony Sancerre, or indeed a surprisingly full Ronco del Betulle from Friuli – all the same grape, but quite different. But the truth is, there are great wines to be had all over the globe. A couple of things are certain. New World wines will tend to be labelled with the grape variety, whereas Old World wines usually state the place name – you have to know your grapes! Also the Old World’s attitude has traditionally been “we make this wine, it’s up to you if you like it..”, whilst the New World tends to make wines they know people want.

One really exciting region to explore is the Languedoc. Small producers, often free of AC strictures, able to experiment and develop highly individual, and attractive wines at amazing prices. Recommended wines: Chateau de Pennautier AOC Cabardes Collection Privee 2003; La Sauvageonne Pica Broca AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 2004

But I remember a beautiful evening in a tiny restaurant somewhere in rural Provence, with the best of friends, local food and local wines that had no pretensions and cost peanuts. Without question some of the best wines I ever had.

Tip.

Letting a wine ‘breathe’ for a bit before drinking by just uncorking it is a bit of an old wives tale. Not enough surface area for the oxygen to work on the wine. Pour it out into a decanter or jug, with lots of air, and this will help smooth the acids and tannins in a hurry, giving you a more mellow glassful. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape