Raise A Glass Of English

The English wine industry goes back a long way. Cuttings of grapevines were first brought over by the Romans some 2000 years ago, and the winemaking business thrived into the Middle Ages. But strangely enough England was a degree or two warmer then, and it was as ambient temperatures fell over a century or so (remember those pictures of the Thames frozen solid?) that the vines suffered. At the start of the 20^th century there was no wine industry at all, and it wasn’t until the 1950s that a few pioneers began growing vines again. Now there are around 400 vineyards throughout England, and while it’s fair to say that not all of them are producing good stuff (OK, some of it’s pretty bad), there are shining examples that compete in their own right against well-established names from abroad.

You might not recognise some of the grapes, and you won’t see many examples of noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc – there’s just not the climate for them to do well (yet). But the likes of Bacchus, Seyval Blanc, Huxelrebe, Rondo, Reichensteiner, Dornfelder, Ortega, and many others are finding a good home here. There are limited plantings of some well-known names though – notably Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the key champagne varietals, and it’s in sparkling wine that England is excelling. Nyetimber from Sussex has won countless awards, and recently their 2003 Classic Cuvée won “Champion of Worldwide Sparkling Wines” at the Bollicini del Mondo competition in Verona – defeating the likes of Pommery, Bollinger, and Roederer to name but a few. Not so unlikely when you think about it, since the geology and climate in southern parts of England are both similar to those of Champagne. And certainly at some of our wine tastings we put in an English sparkling blind, which people often pick as the best.

Really satisfying reds are still quite hard to find, with one or two decent exceptions, but several whites and rosés are showing nicely, and are great for a summer tipple – gone are the days of the puckered wince at the first taste of any English wine. Here are a few to look at:

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2003 – champagne method, champagne grapes, dry, intense, but soft, with apple acidity, toastiness and great complexity. Chiselled and sophisticated - possibly England’s best.

Ridgeview Cuvée Merret Bloomsbury 2006 – aromatic, crisp lemon acidity, richly textured mousse, and a hint of toast and biscuit on the finish. Again champagne method and grapes – very classy.

Camel Valley Cornwall Brut 2006 – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir don’t have to have it all their own way. Seyval Blanc, Huxelrebe, and Reichensteiner in the champagne method to give a wine that’s creamy, fresh, elegant, and with delightful fruit. Goes down very nicely, thank you.

Chapel Down English Rose sparkling – one for the summer frolics. Reichensteiner, Rivaner, and Pinot Noir blended to create a pleasure in pink. Hints of blackcurrant, rosehip, and strawberry, composed with delicacy and finesse. Frivolous drinkability.

Camel Valley Bacchus 2009 – Young, aromatic, fresh and zesty - some say England’s answer to Sancerre. A bright accompaniment to seafood, full of zip and fruit. They like it in The House Of Commons…..

Sharpham Barrel Fermented 2007 – made from 100% Madeleine Angevine and one of the few English wines to be barrel fermented. Complex, balanced, and a great companion to the spicy and oriental.

Chapel Down Bacchus 2009 – Aromatics that smack of a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, and a zing that sings. A bit young yet, but full of summer promise.

Biddenden Ortega 2007 – a medium full fruity number that works well as chilled aperitif. Elderflower, good acidity, and an entertaining palate.

Chapel Down English Rose 2008 – the still version. Strawberries and cream in a glass, even with some shortbread on the side. Ever so slightly off-dry, refreshing acidity, and a no-brainer for picnics and the tennis.

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