The Wine Forum

Storing Wine

2010-11-30T10:33:00.002Z

Four main things to think about here:

Temperature

The key thing is to to have as even temperature as possible - no huge swings. So a kitchen is not a great place to store wine. If you have wine you want to lay down to age then cool is better than warm, since this will encourage proper ageing in a gentle way. Below 5C is not good as this will slow things to a standstill, and above 20C will accelerate things too much.

Light

Light has an adverse effect on wine in storage, hence the reason for a lot of bottles being in dark glass. Red and sparkling wines are worst affected, but it's always best to keep light to a minimum. Wine's a living organism, and everything sleeps better in the dark... Plus too much light may have an effect on temperature.

Humidity

Too dry and over a period of time you may get excess "ullage" - the space between cork and wine in the bottle. So a little humidity is good. Too much may cause mould, but this is the lesser evil. Good ventilation will help preserve a balance.

Angle

All light wine benefits from being stored horizontally. This ensures continued contact with the cork, keeping it moist, and inhibiting penetration of oxygen. With screwcaps this obviously not such an issue, but it's always handy to have a wine lying label up both for identification, and to allow any sediment to settle on the clear side. Keeping the label in good nick also helps if you intend to sell the wine later.

Not everyone is lucky enough to have a cellar, but places like understairs cupboards, spare rooms, garages (though insulated is best), unused fireplaces, pantries, or basements can all work well. You can of course invest in a temperature controlled cabinet (there are various sizes from about 16 bottles to 1,000), and for rather more money you can have a specially designed spiral cellar dug in almost any part of your house to store anything from 600 - 1500 bottles.

Alternatives to Sauternes?

2010-11-26T17:40:00.003Z

There are many. If you love your dessert wine, know your Sauternes, but want to try some options - well here are a few suggestions.

Not a million miles away you'll find Monbazillac, in Bergerac along the Dordogne valley. Similar in style, often outstandingly delicious, and outstandingly good value. And next door to this is Saussignac - increasingly interesting, and also made in the same style with Botrytis (or Noble Rot) and the same grapes - Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. But look a little further afield in France and you'll find gorgeous Coteaux du Layon in the Loire (Chenin Blanc), honeyed and aromatic Beaumes-de-Venises in Vaucluse (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains), and Jurancon in the South West (Petit Manseng) for example. And these are just some of the white ones. For red you could perhaps try a Maury, Banyuls, or Muscat de Rivesaltes.

Slip across to Italy, and things start to get even more exciting. Some Recioto di Soave in Veneto, or a great Passito from Umbria or Sicily maybe, and a high quality aged Vin Santo can be a real delight. And don't get Moscato d'Asti confused with the inferior Asti Spumante. The real stuff is foamingly aromatic and refreshing, and top notch with various desserts, particularly in summer. Plus lets not forget the sweeter end of riesling wine in Germany, as in Auslese, Beerenauselese, and even Trockenbeerenauslese.

Countries around the globe are producing lovely examples of sweet wines - late harvest Sauvignon from Chile, Muscat from Rutherglen in Australia, and Tokay from Hungary to mention but a very few. There are even good stabs at it in England with grapes such as Siegerrebe, Ortega, and Bacchus. The list could go on, without touching on styles of sherry, port, madeira and so on - encompassing both fortified and unfortified wines.

Throughout all these the key to a great dessert wine is that it must also have a clean and striking vein of acidity. Just sweet and luscious can be overwhelming and unsatisfying - although unctuous stickies like PX sherry have their place poured over vanilla ice cream, say. What you really want is all the richness and sweetness, followed by some mouth-cleansing acidity which will make you salivate, and refresh at the same time. And then you want more. And more....

A Cure For The Morning After?

2010-11-19T10:26:00.004Z

The morning after a Saturday night session. Bleary-eyed, two odd socks, and a mouth as dry as a Dukes’ martini, you start to think about brunch. Scrambled eggs…smoked salmon...bacon…croissants? And something to put the sun back into Sunday - but what will do it? Many turn to Bucks Fizz (not the band hopefully, unless it was a very bad night), but there are other possibilities. The good old Bellini makes a refreshing change – just mix some quality organic peach juice with some chiselled Prosecco and you’ve got a hangover-smashing wake-me-up. Or go really whacky with something from the Basque country – Txacoli de Getaria. As light as Atlantic spray, brisk, acidic, and lightly foaming, they pour this over their shoulder in Spain to give it the spritz, and drunk chilled it’ll clean your teeth for you in no time. Great with oysters, or salty smoky things.

And there's always the traditional Prairie Oyster - 1 raw egg (yolk unbroken) in a glass, a teaspoon of Worcester Sauce, salt and pepper, and as much Tabasco as you can bear. Sounds revolting? This is how P.G.Wodehouse describes Bertie Wooster's first experience of Jeeves' version after a hard night:

"I swallowed the stuff. For a moment it felt as if somebody had touched off a bomb inside the old bean and was strolling down my throat with a lighted torch, and then everything seemed suddenly to get all right. The sun shone in through the window; birds twittered in the tree-tops; and, generally speaking, hope dawned once more."*

Exactly.

*(Carry On, Jeeves by P.G.Wodehouse)

Wine tips - temperature

2010-11-18T18:23:00.005Z

White wine drunk too cold will suppress the flavours. Red wine drunk too cold will accentuate the tannins - unless it's a young fruity number meant to be drunk cool, like a Beaujolais perhaps. For reds, room temperature is generally the done thing - but think about it. Room temperature not so long ago was a lot less than many have it now. So about 8C for white, and about 18C for red. Fizz should always be drunk chilled since it's often pretty acidic - and the bubbles taste better that way... Many sweet wines are best chilled, but not all. A red Vin Doux Naturel might be better around 16C for example, likewise a vintage Port. These have ripe tannins, so see above. But try an aged tawny port chilled as an aperitif. Fantastic.

A Glass A Day Keeps The Doctor Away?

2010-11-18T11:14:00.006Z

Is wine good for your health? Well, I’m in danger of sticking my neck out here, so lets get a couple of things straight first:

1. Everything in moderation (including moderation, if you’re Oscar Wilde).

2. Over-indulgence is bound to be more harmful than total abstinence.

3. I write as a qualified wine person, not a qualified medical person.

Right, that’s that out of the way – now for the fun part. Even the father of medicine himself, good old Hippocrates, was recommending wine for various ailments hundreds of years BC. More recently phenomena such as the “French Paradox” have encouraged quite extensive research into the medicinal properties of wine. This “Paradox” manifests itself in the way the French, many of whom have diets high in saturated fats, nevertheless show a low incidence of heart disease when compared globally. Well they drink a lot of red wine, and subsequent studies have shown that red wine in particular contains flavanoids including (deep breath) oligomeric procyanidin, resveratrol, and quercetin, which can either help to prevent hardening of the arteries, or have the potential to help protect against heart disease. In properly regulated quantities wine can also help to balance cholesterol, which is thought to be down to how wine slows digestion, thus preventing some fatty content from entering the bloodstream. So linger over that glass, and savour that flavour.

There’s more. The flavanoids found in wine (particularly red wine) are believed to function as anti-oxidants, and the subsequent inhibition of some free radicals these cause have been shown to reduce the occurrence of some cancers in certain cases – notably of the digestive tract. The real miracle compound, resveratrol, is also thought to have the ability to activate certain longevity genes known as sirtuins, thus slowing down ageing processes. What? It makes us live longer too? I like to think so… There are cardiologists (I know of one in Swindon of all places) who prescribe a little red wine every day to heart patients, in the belief that it reduces the chance of a second heart attack by some 50%. Cabernet Sauvignon is the best at all this, and the Cab Sav that’s made from very high altitude grapes (such as in Argentina) the best of all. Thinner air, more UV on the skins, longer ripening process, making thicker skins and more anti-oxidants.

I could go on – but lets think about moderation for a minute. Because we have to. You may want to keep an eye on your weekly intake, which the UK government has prescribed as 14 units for women, and 21 for men. It’s fairly simple to calculate a unit of alcohol by using the following formula – alcohol content (ABV) x volume (ml) ÷ 1000. By this method we can figure out that a 750ml bottle of wine at 13% alcohol will contain 9.75 units. In other words one large 250ml glass of wine holds more daily units than even men are supposed to have. Oops. To make it plain you’ll find about one unit of alcohol in each of the following: half a 175ml glass of wine; half a pint of 3.5% ABV beer, lager, or cider; 25ml of spirits; 50ml of vermouth. But where wine’s concerned I think the moral of the story is simply to drink less quantity but better quality, which hopefully should even things out on the purse, and enable you to reap all the best of benefits.

A Magnum Of Solace

2010-11-17T17:37:00.004Z

So you’ve been dumped by the boyfriend. It all looks bleak, everyone else is having much more fun than you, and you’ve resorted to hugging cushions and talking to the cat. Time for a drop of the good stuff – but what are the options? Well, lets see:

1. Stay dark, brooding, and sad

2. As above, but feel better with comforts

3. Throw it aside and look on the bright side

There are wines to suit all the moods, and here are a few suggestions – not necessarily the cheapest, but this is a time for quality, and you need treats.

Dark and brooding

Here we want something that’s rich, full of mystery, spicy – as red as a bleeding heart. A wine you can really lose yourself in, and makes you feel good while feeling bad. So off to South America (one of the more romantic, and sassy continents) for two possibilities – Malbec from Argentina, and Carmenere from Chile. Both of these produce dark, smoky, fruity customers that will wrap themselves round you like a comfort blanket, and warm your jilted cockles. Good Malbec examples are Crios 2008, Catena 2007 and Soluna Organic Premium, and if you can find it Salentein Reserva. For Carmenere perhaps Mont Gras Carmenere Reserva 2009, Palo Alto 2008 with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah added, and Perez Cruz Limited Edition Reserva 2008. Sink down in those cushions with some Manchego cheese to soften the tannins, and make the flavours silky and delicious.

Comforts

Chocolate and ice cream – they usually do the trick. But what to drink with them? I’ve got two great suggestions, and you’ll need to share them with friends (who can also comfort) because they pack quite a punch… Something dark for the best dark chocolate, where the bitterness of the cocoa bites through the sweetness of the wine, and the two hit it off like lovers on a first date (oops, sorry..). Look no further than Mas Amiel Maury Vintage Rouge 2007- it’s a bit pricey, but you won’t need much, and it’s worth it!. Then on to ice cream – this may sound weird but you’ve got to try it. Get the best vanilla (personally I go for Green & Blacks) and pour over it some PX sherry. This stuff is ultra sweet, made from the Pedro Ximenez grape, and full of figs, molasses, Christmas spice, and nutty lusciousness having worked its way for years through an old solera. Noe PX Sherry, or Don PX Dulce Gran Reserva are both great.

The bright side

Is it that bad? Was he really such hot stuff? You’re a free agent again, so celebrate! Get some mates round and start popping a few corks, and lets make it fizzy. A lovely Prosecco to get you going – Azienda Agricola Bellenda - fruity, zingy and ever so slightly exotic (just like you really). Then a vintage champagne for £20! Yes, Heidsieck Gold Top 2004 is a bit of a steal, and ticks all the right boxes for a decent champers – soft, elegant, with subtle undertones (yes, I know, just like you again..). And for the splash-out come home to England. It’s pink, it’s classy, and it’ll make a hole in your purse, but it’s a joyous mouthful. Hush Heath Balfour Brut Rose 2005 is made in the champagne method with champagne grapes, and is bursting with wild strawberries and creaminess. A winner of medals and hearts this should make the sun shine again. Pour out some foaming glasses, and have with smoked salmon blinis, brie, and loads of strawberries. Now, what was his name again…?

Units Of Alcohol

2010-09-13T15:03:00.002+01:00

So what comprises a unit of alcohol? It's a useful thing to know these days, especially with reference to drinking and driving - although in this case it's simply best never to mix the two. You may want to keep an eye on your weekly intake, which the UK government has (some believe fairly randomly) prescribed as 14 units for women, and 21 for men. There is also a link between quantity and calorie intake, which many may be concerned about from a diet point of view.

The fact is that one unit of alcohol is not very much alcohol at all. Some guidelines:

Half a 175ml glass of wine

Half a pint of 3.5% ABV beer, cider or lager

25ml of spirits

25ml of sherry or vermouth

There is a simple formula for working out units of alcohol which is:

Strength (ABV) x volume (ml) ÷ 1,000 = No. of units

So by this method we can calculate that a 75cl bottle of 13% alcohol is 9.75 units. However it's important to realise that all individuals react in different ways to amounts of alcohol, and that keeping your intake within the bounds of certain calculations doesn't mean you aren't intoxicated.

Calories in alcohol have actually little to do with strength, but may be an interesting addendum to this thread. Again some guidelines - a 175ml glass of the below will have pretty much the following calorie content:

Dry white wine - 116

Medium white wine - 130

Red wine - 119

Rosé - 124

Sparkling - 130

While a 50ml glass of port will contain about 78 calories.

Alternative Wines

2010-06-23T16:17:00.006+01:00

Looking for some new wines to try out? Lets start with something to replace a Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, which is a standard for many people. You like it crisp and aromatic, but with a kind of restrained elegance, and plenty of fruit. Options might be some Grüner Veltliner from Austria, some Albariño from Galicia in north west Spain, or (goodness me!) some Bacchus from good old Blighty. The first two offer all the crispness and exoticism, and good quality Bacchus has been called the English answer to Sancerre, with plenty of aromatics.

Perhaps you want a white that’s a little rounder and fuller, but you don’t like it heavily oaked. Look towards northern Italy maybe or even Alsace. In Veneto they make gorgeous Soave – but have a care! Soave made from the Trebbiano grape can be thin and inspid, but Soave Classico or Superiore made from the Garganega grape is a different customer altogether. Rich, refreshing, honeyed, and lovely. And in Alsace hunt out some Pinot Blanc that gives hints of smokiness and fills the mouth with nicely rounded fruit and freshness.

A couple of reds: you like something smooth and approachable, again with lots of fruit. It might be worth checking out the Loire valley for some Chinon or some Saumur-Champigny both of which are packed with black fruit, and drink very easily. Or if South America’s your area, then Argentina will offer some rich pickings with Malbecs and Cabernet Sauvignons from high altitude vineyards that are velvety and full. Smokier, bigger, and darker? Then some Mencia from Bierzo in Spain could be your answer, some Carmenere from Chile, or some Teroldego from northern Italy. Or of you’re feeling really adventurous, hunting out some of the “garage” wines from the Languedoc is always fun, and often rewarding.

As far as fizz goes – and it can go far – well it doesn’t have to be champers. So many sparkling wines around the world are made in the champagne method, and with the same grapes, that can knock a few big names for six. Franciacorta from Italy, Cremant de Bourgogne, some South African examples, and lets not forget England again! This is where we really excel, making award-winning fizz that’s very high class - Nyetimber, Ridgeview, Camel Valley, Balfour. And with other methods and/or grapes around the globe there’s Prosecco, Vouvray, Cava and so on, all with something to offer if chosen well.

Actually the possibilities are endless. Just the excuse I need...

You Gets What You Pays For - Usually.

2010-05-04T14:35:00.003+01:00

OK, so the average price of a bottle of wine bought in a shop in the UK now is £4.35. Duty is £1.69 and VAT is 65p, making a total of £2.34 to come off. That leaves precisely £2.01 for a lot else - advertising, transport, wages, winemaking, profit margins for resellers, packaging, etc etc. It doesn't take genius to figure out that there's not going to be much left for the winemaker at the end of it all. So what's he/she likely to do - make as much of the stuff as possible as cheaply as possible. And that results in a pretty average bottle.

If you add on a couple of quid or so the end margin improves rapidly - for example duty is exactly the same for a £4 bottle or a £40 bottle. So the maker will take a lot more care of and interest in the wine being made - maybe reduced yield (so more goodness in fewer grapes), picking by hand (perhaps at night to reduce risk of harm from a hot sun), better blending and balance, and so on. Simple moral of the story is spend £7 - £10 per bottle and you will get a better wine - more complex, rewarding, and more truly reflecting its origins.

A couple of caveats - it might not be a good idea to get suckered into the supermarket's special offer "was £9.99 now only £4.99...". There may be all sorts of clever shenanigans going on here. I mean what should the original price actually be? Supermarkets are not in the business of losing money. And also prices over £20 a bottle and you starting to get into premium wines where many other elements come into play - such as status, supply and demand, the name, and so on. People often ask me "What's the best wine you've ever had?" Impossible question. Yes I've had some of the so-called finest wines in the world which were lovely, but I've also eaten in little places deep in French or Italian countryside, and drunk the local stuff for peanuts - outstanding and delicious.

Drinking good wine is great, and can be an adventure that adds romance, laughter, and real pleasure to any occasion. Drinking bad wine serves one function really, which generally ends up with a severe headache. There are plenty of other regular things in life that people happily spend similar money on - why not wine? Up to you of course, but I know which way I go.

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What’s Your Poison For Election Night?

2010-05-04T14:17:00.002+01:00

Will it be party night for your party? The polls tell us that parliament will end up an interesting blend – hopefully with a taint free aroma, a refreshing flavour, and a finish that doesn’t disappoint. But for the night itself why not for a moment forget all the blarney, sit down to dinner, and let opinion manifest itself in wine. Below are some suggestions, but the choice is yours of course. We’re pushing the boat out a bit here, but then it may be the last time for a while as the cuts take hold….

What to start with? Well some sort of fizz seems right – you might not end up celebrating, but can at least start on a promising note with the spirits high. So for this I suggest Camel Valley “Cornwall” Brut 2007 (£18.99 at www.waitrosewine.com) for the following reasons: 1) It’s British – a good start. 2) It’s made in the traditional, champagne method (and so instills confidence), but is composed of an unusual blend of grapes – Seyval Blanc, Huxelrebe, Reichensteiner – promising change, and a little excitement. 3) It’s delicious – elegant, fresh, fruity, a velvety mousse, and a long round finish. It deservedly finds a place on the wine list of many fine restaurants.

On to the first course, and lets open with the Lib Dems. I’m going a little further afield with this one, but then international co-operation is no doubt crucial. How about some Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc from Terroire d’Aniane 2008 (£22.95 at www.slurp.co.uk). So much has been said about this wine – it’s extraordinary. Primary pearfruit from viognier melts into a buttery mouthfeel, and great expression of dried fruits, with a crisp and lingering finish. But the thing is it’s a wild mix of Viognier, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, and an array of Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Muscat, Chenin and others. In other words some of the time no-one knows quite what’s in it. About right I feel.

The main course, and I’m going to go with Labour. We need something with more substance than popularity – an intense red fellow that initially offers no compromise but yields at the end. A wine that you either develop a lifelong relationship with, or simply can’t abide – and that only works with certain types of food. Chateau du Cedre in Cahors makes sumptuous, inky black wines from the Malbec grape (so different to Argentina), full of dark, brooding fruit, fig, liquorice, and tannic grip. Try the Cuvée Prestige 2006 (£14.25 at www.greatwesternwine.co.uk) which has a dollop of Tannat, and is the most approachable. A purposeful wine that truly reflects it’s origins, but with a character many just can’t tolerate. If you know what I mean.

Leaving just dessert for the Tories. We need something unctuous and sticky to finish with, so back to Middle England for this with some Nectar 2007 from Chapel Down in Kent (£13.23 for 50cl at www.formanandfield.com). Siegerrebe, Bacchus, and Huxelrebe grapes blended to give a luscious and aromatic mouthful, streaked with a vein of acidity that cuts through and refreshes. But being low in alcohol (8.5%) it’s a lightweight, and it also has a great affinity with cheese. Draw your own conclusions.

Which is what we must all do on May 6^th. Which party am I for – why, the drinks party of course. Bottoms up!

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Raise A Glass Of English

2010-05-04T14:09:00.002+01:00

The English wine industry goes back a long way. Cuttings of grapevines were first brought over by the Romans some 2000 years ago, and the winemaking business thrived into the Middle Ages. But strangely enough England was a degree or two warmer then, and it was as ambient temperatures fell over a century or so (remember those pictures of the Thames frozen solid?) that the vines suffered. At the start of the 20^th century there was no wine industry at all, and it wasn’t until the 1950s that a few pioneers began growing vines again. Now there are around 400 vineyards throughout England, and while it’s fair to say that not all of them are producing good stuff (OK, some of it’s pretty bad), there are shining examples that compete in their own right against well-established names from abroad.

You might not recognise some of the grapes, and you won’t see many examples of noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc – there’s just not the climate for them to do well (yet). But the likes of Bacchus, Seyval Blanc, Huxelrebe, Rondo, Reichensteiner, Dornfelder, Ortega, and many others are finding a good home here. There are limited plantings of some well-known names though – notably Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the key champagne varietals, and it’s in sparkling wine that England is excelling. Nyetimber from Sussex has won countless awards, and recently their 2003 Classic Cuvée won “Champion of Worldwide Sparkling Wines” at the Bollicini del Mondo competition in Verona – defeating the likes of Pommery, Bollinger, and Roederer to name but a few. Not so unlikely when you think about it, since the geology and climate in southern parts of England are both similar to those of Champagne. And certainly at some of our wine tastings we put in an English sparkling blind, which people often pick as the best.

Really satisfying reds are still quite hard to find, with one or two decent exceptions, but several whites and rosés are showing nicely, and are great for a summer tipple – gone are the days of the puckered wince at the first taste of any English wine. Here are a few to look at:

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2003 – champagne method, champagne grapes, dry, intense, but soft, with apple acidity, toastiness and great complexity. Chiselled and sophisticated - possibly England’s best.

Ridgeview Cuvée Merret Bloomsbury 2006 – aromatic, crisp lemon acidity, richly textured mousse, and a hint of toast and biscuit on the finish. Again champagne method and grapes – very classy.

Camel Valley Cornwall Brut 2006 – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir don’t have to have it all their own way. Seyval Blanc, Huxelrebe, and Reichensteiner in the champagne method to give a wine that’s creamy, fresh, elegant, and with delightful fruit. Goes down very nicely, thank you.

Chapel Down English Rose sparkling – one for the summer frolics. Reichensteiner, Rivaner, and Pinot Noir blended to create a pleasure in pink. Hints of blackcurrant, rosehip, and strawberry, composed with delicacy and finesse. Frivolous drinkability.

Camel Valley Bacchus 2009 – Young, aromatic, fresh and zesty - some say England’s answer to Sancerre. A bright accompaniment to seafood, full of zip and fruit. They like it in The House Of Commons…..

Sharpham Barrel Fermented 2007 – made from 100% Madeleine Angevine and one of the few English wines to be barrel fermented. Complex, balanced, and a great companion to the spicy and oriental.

Chapel Down Bacchus 2009 – Aromatics that smack of a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, and a zing that sings. A bit young yet, but full of summer promise.

Biddenden Ortega 2007 – a medium full fruity number that works well as chilled aperitif. Elderflower, good acidity, and an entertaining palate.

Chapel Down English Rose 2008 – the still version. Strawberries and cream in a glass, even with some shortbread on the side. Ever so slightly off-dry, refreshing acidity, and a no-brainer for picnics and the tennis.

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ABC?

2008-09-12T10:12:00.004+01:00

Or 'Anything But Chardonnay'? The much-maligned grape which for many people still suffers from an over-oaked reputation as a hangover from the late 80's and 90's. In fact it became so overwhelmingly fashionable through this period that often it was thought to be a brand rather than a grape variety. But Chardonnay is at the heart of a wonderfully varied selection of wine styles - at its best rich and complex, at its worst almost watery.

Chardonnay is one of the easier varieties to grow, and is the second most widely grown white grape in the world, after Airen in Spain. You'll find it not only in the more obvious regions such as France, Australia, New Zealand and Chile, but also as far afield as India, Uruguay and England - in fact pretty much everywhere that makes wine. Argentina makes some lovely examples. It is a grape that well reflects its terroir, and adapts to many winemaking techniques.

All white Burgundy is made from Chardonnay. These are some of the most expensive and spectacular white wines in the world, and are much copied - with varying degrees of success. Highly complex and concentrated (and with matching price tags) their characteristics can include notes of marzipan, steel, hazelnut and butter, depending on the vineyard, and will have great finish. They are also long-lived, which is rare among most whites. However, it is possible to find lovely burgundy style whites at a fraction of the cost - have a look at St Veran and Macon, or more interestingly in Limoux.

In the north of Burgundy you find Chablis, again made from Chardonnay. This wine however is flinty, crisp and steely - a world away from a Montrachet for example. Its name too has in some parts of the world (notably North America) become a synonym for a style of dry white wine, but it has been almost impossible to reproduce true Chablis style other than in its original region, growing on the Kimmeridgian clay (formed of billions of tiny fossilized oyster shells) that gives it its character.

Then there's sparkling wine and champagne. Chardonnay is one of the three key grape varieties that make up champagne (the other two being Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier), and the vast majority of quality sparkling wines - with notable examples coming from England incidentally. It's being introduced into some Spanish cava now, which traditionally has been made from Spanish grapes such as Macabeu, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, adding class and some familiarity.

Chardonnay is also added to blends all over the world to add body or finesse. And it's true to say that there are still many user-friendly examples on the shelves, richly fruity and balanced off by added acid. But if you're one of those people who says "Oh, I don't like Chardonnay..". think again and give some carefully chosen wines a go. You may be surprised.

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Styles Of Rioja

2008-09-09T09:38:00.002+01:00

I often get asked about the meaning of words such as "Crianza" or "Reserva" on bottles of Rioja. Well, they simply refer to the ageing process of the wine. Spanish DOC wines (Denominacion de Origen Calificada) are governed by very strict rules (as are AC wines in France) regarding their manufacture, grape variety, maturing standards etc. The majority of Rioja is aged in small oak barrels (225 litres), made from American oak, which gives it that distinctive vanilla and leathery flavour. Different styles are aged for different periods of time.

First there is Vino Joven, literally meaning "young", which is a wine that may or may not have spent some time in casks before being bottled. Not much of this gets to the UK, so it's a bit of a rarity.

Next comes "Crianza", which literally translates as "rearing" or "nursery". This must be at least two years old before release, and have spent at least six months of its maturing in oak casks - the rest in bottle. Moving on to "Reserva" - these must be at least three years old, of which one year in casks, and are generally wines from selected vats of the better vintages.

Top of the tree is "Gran Reserva" which should be produced only in exceptional vintages. These red wines must be at least five years old before release, having spent at least two years in cask and three in bottle. As with other styles, these are minimum requirements, and many winemakers mature their wines for much longer than is stipulated.

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What Are Fortified Wines?

2008-08-28T12:59:00.005+01:00

Fortified wines are wines that have had alcohol, in the form of grape spirit, added at some point in their fermentation process thus making them stronger than light wines. But first off, what is fermentation? This is Nature's wondrous gift, where (in simple terms) yeast consumes sugar and produces alcohol as a by-product of this process, along with a few other things, such as glycerol and carbon dioxide. By and large this is a controlled reaction which results in wines not exceeding 14% or 15% alcohol, though the average is usually closer to 12.5 to 13.5%. Most yeasts cannot tolerate an environment containing greater than 16% alcohol, and will effectively die.

So, when is this grape spirit added? Well, it depends. There are two main methods, loosely called the port method and the sherry method. In the former, the spirit is added before fermentation has naturally finished (i.e. when not all the sugar has been consumed, and when the alcohol strength is at about 8%), and the wine is fortified up to a level of between 16 - 20%. So you are left with a strong wine that still contains a lot of sugar, or sweetness. The character of the wine is then developed by various forms of ageing and maturing. This method is used for Port, most Madeira, Vins Doux Naturels, Australian liqueur Muscat, and other styles. In some cases the spirit is added even before fermentation has begun, leaving you with what is basically alcoholic grape juice (often called Mistelle or Vin de Liqueur).

The sherry method adds fortification after fermentation has completed, either to 15.5% or 17.5% depending on the wine style and ageing process being utilised, which once again determines the final character of the wine. This method is used for most sherries and dry Madeiras (Sercial). It's worth noting that when some intensely sweet grapes are used (such as Pedro Ximenes or PX) there may be sugars left even after fermentation has completed - too much for the yeast to deal with.

These wines will partner an astonishing array of foods both sweet and savoury (sherry is great with tapas), though note that fortified wines are very strong and should be treated with respect. They are also quite different to sweet wines such as Sauternes, which are unfortified.

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To Age Or Not To Age

2008-08-28T10:17:00.005+01:00

A lot of people ask about how long to keep wine – the vintage date alone does not give you the answer. There are guidelines but wine is not a precise science - more a matter of personal preference. The vast majority of wines these days are made to be drunk straight off the shelf, but ultimately it is up to you to decide when you drink your wines. Here are a few useful rules of thumb.

How long should white wines be kept?

Most white wines (particularly inexpensive bottles) are best drunk as young as possible - certainly within a year or two of the vintage. Their appeal is in their freshness and fruitiness - leave them for much longer and those lovely fresh flavours fade away. There are exceptions however. Full-bodied whites like top-quality burgundies, other big chardonnays and fine rieslings will usually gain complexity with age. Sweet semillons (Sauternes and the like) and other quality dessert wines also reward keeping. Good vintage champagnes (though not most NVs) evolve nicely in the bottle, and top chenin blanc wines often have very good staying power

Don't you have to keep red wines for years ?

In general no, not for the vast majority these days ... though, again, it depends. Red wines contain more tannin, the stuff that's also present in long-brewed tea. It comes mainly from the grape skins and acts as the wine's perfect natural preservative. You know when tannin is present because of its uncanny mouth-drying effect. Big traditional reds (like those from some of Bordeaux's greatest estates) can have masses of tannin and do need to be stored for many years before they are soft enough to drink. The fruit mellows, all sorts of other strange, complex flavours start developing, and the tannins may start clumping together to drop out and form a harmless sediment. The myth that all red wines must be aged to be drinkable stems from these old traditional methods of winemaking.

Which reds are ready to drink straight away?

Today people know how to make wine without much tannin and most is perfect for drinking quite soon after the vintage. Many New World makers are masters of this rounded, fruit-driven style ... but they are by no means alone. In France - Beaujolais, the Loire, the Rhône, and many areas of the south all produce lovely, early-drinking reds as do the more progressive estates of Spain and Italy.

So, there are no firm rules?

Afraid not. If a wine is well made it will not fall apart at some pre-determined date in the future. It’s true that the more expensive, quality wines are usually the ones that will improve over time, but try to develop your own gauges. When you taste a wine, do you think it’s out of balance (think about the acidity, tannin, fruit flavours), and do you think this will level out with age? But try not to let it go over the top.

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Champagne vs Sparkling

2008-08-27T10:50:00.003+01:00

Only sparkling wine made in Champagne can be called champagne. They're pretty fussy about that. We used to see the term "methode champenoise" on a bottle of sparkling from elsewhere, but now the most that's allowed is "methode traditionelle", or possibly "methode classique". Funny thing is, much fizz from around the world is made in exactly the same way as champagne, and often with the same grapes - Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay - or some variation of these. And a lot of it is excellent stuff, rivalling the genuine article.

Take English sparkling wine for example. Much of the geology of southern England is just the same as in Champagne, and the climate's not dissimilar. They're making some top quality fizz now, and in recent international blind tastings have been winning plenty of awards - in competition with champagne. Recommended wines: Nyetimber, Ridgeview, and Camel Valley. Or how about a Cremant de Bourgogne - same grapes, slightly lower bottling pressure (hence Cremant), soft and delicious. Recommended wine: Louis Bouillot Perle de Vigne Grand Reserve. And another Old World favourite,at a great price, Cava from Spain. Usually different grapes, but some with the same varieties, and all made in champagne method. Recommended wine: Codorniu Reserva Raventos (chardonnay, from the oldest cava making house in Spain).

The New World makes some stunners too - particularly Lindauer from New Zealand, their Brut and Rose being outstanding value. And you could have a look at South Africa - Graham Beck being a good starting point.

These are just a few suggestions - there are many others (and indeed fizz made by other methods which are also great, eg Prosecco). The thing is, if you tried blind tasting a few, could you tell the difference? And could you guess the price points? A high quality vintage champagne may stand out, for various reasons (style, intensity of lees aroma, length), but try a few NVs against competition from around the world and see how you fare. You might be surprised.

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Closures And Openings

2008-08-20T16:29:00.003+01:00

Corks aren't essential for most wines, only perhaps those venerable bottles that you want to keep for a decade or so. Most would very likely be better serviced with a screw cap. But corks make wine different ... they are part of the romance and ceremony of opening a bottle.

Corks, however, can also contain bacteria which bring with them unwanted musty flavours that spoil a wine (cork taint, which smells like damp, mouldy cardboard), so there has been much research into finding an alternative. Screw caps are very good, and convenient, and synthetic stoppers are OK for wines meant to be drunk young. But for wines that need to lay down and mature over a long period, the natural cork is probably still the best, since it allows minute amounts of oxygen through to the wine, which in turn contributes to the maturation process.

Opening still wine

For both natural and synthetic corks, a good corkscrew is essential. A poor one will tear the middle out of a cork and may hurt your hand. A good one will have a comfortable grip, use counter-pressure against the rim of the bottle and the screw will have an open spiral with a clear line of sight up the middle, to grip as much cork as possible.

Incidentally, a ragged-edged capsule, where the cork has been pulled through, spoils the look of things. To avoid this, simply cut a circle just below the ridge on the neck of the bottle and remove. If there is any mould, wipe it away and don't worry about it!

Opening Sparkling Wine

There’s the Formula 1 way (wasteful and messy), the sabrage method using a sword (not to be recommended unless you really know how - and messy), and the best way, as follows:

Chill the wine well and don't shake the bottle - the wine will taste better and more will stay in the bottle.
Once the wire cage is removed, keep your thumb over the cork at all times and never point it at anything precious.
Twist the bottle, not the cork, and remove it slowly so there is a sigh, not a loud pop, as you open the bottle
Finally, to serve with style, put your thumb up the 'punt' (the dimple at the bottom of the bottle) and pour slowly.

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Tasting Wine

2008-08-20T09:48:00.004+01:00

Anyone who enjoys a glass of wine can taste wine 'properly', it’s not just for privileged palates. All it takes is a little extra concentration and a few pointers on what to look for. If you can, it’s best to use a glass with a bowl shaped base that narrows towards the top to concentrate the aromas.

Appearance

Hold your glass, about a third full, at an angle of about 45° against a white surface and look at the colour at the rim and at the centre. A young red will have a pinkish-purple rim, an old wine a tawny-brown edge. A light-bodied red will be less deep in colour at the centre than a fuller-bodied one. Crisp, light whites will be pale straw in hue, older, richer or sweeter whites are more golden. Generally, white wines turn more yellow or golden with age, while red wines turn more brown. You can also check the “legs” – give the wine a swirl and then look for trails of liquid sticking to the side of the glass as it settles. These are the “legs”. As wine ferments alcohol is created, along with glycerol – the more of the former, the more of the latter. In other words, “good legs” gripping the glass indicate a strong wine.

Aroma

The bouquet of a wine is even more important than its taste - as more than half of its flavour is contained in its volatile aromas. Your mouth can only detect sweet, sour, salt and bitter tastes, all the flavour is up in your olfactory lobe. Draw a couple of imaginary circles with your glass on a flat surface to swirl the wine around. Then sniff, letting the aromas rise towards your nostrils. Your first impression will always be the strongest; after that your nose will gradually tire.

Taste

Then take a good sip - taking in enough wine to bathe the whole of your mouth. Notice its initial taste (its attack), what flavours develop next (its middle palate) and its finish. How long do the flavours last? Is it a young tannic red wine with enough fruit to age or a smooth, fruity red for drinking now? Are the rich flavours of a white wine balanced by enough acidity, or is the acidity of a fresh white balanced by sufficient fruit?

Hints

Most of your tasting will occur as part of your drinking - you will hopefully just notice more of the flavours in your glass. However, for a more formal tasting:

Use a room with plenty of daylight, so you get a true picture of a wine's colour.
Don't try to smell and taste wine in an atmosphere heavy in smoke or scent.
You don't need to spit out your precious samples, but your head won't be clear for long!
Dispense with all food except dry water biscuits.

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Storing Wine

2008-08-20T09:38:00.002+01:00

Not many people are lucky enough to have cellars, and special temperature controlled cabinets are expensive. But following a few simple guidelines will help keep your wines in good condition, even those that do not need time in bottle.

Why bother storing a wine?

Any wine will benefit from a little rest between its journey to you and being opened, if you’re ordering a delivery. It's often not a question of ageing, since the vast majority of wines these days are made to be drunk straight off the shelf, it’s just giving a living organism time to settle. Being patient can be difficult, especially if it's a wine you've never tried before, but wine is not at its best after a long trip. A good plan is to keep some stock at home rather than jump straight into a new case.

Where should I keep a small stock of wine?

Wherever you like, as long as it is not at the mercy of strong light and extremes of temperature. If you want to keep your wines more than a couple of months or so, lay the bottles horizontally so the corks don't dry out, which might let the air in and spoil the wine. Ideally, keep your bottles out of direct sunlight, away from vibration and at a constant temperature. The exact degree is not so important, as long as it's somewhere sensible between freezing and 65° F/18° C! Try to ensure it’s a dark place away from hot water pipes or heaters, so attics or greenhouses are both non-starters. Under stairs, the bottom of cupboards or small spare rooms are all popular resting places for wine and insulation will help to maintain a more constant temperature. Keeping your wines in their box is not a bad idea either - the cardboard does a reasonable insulating job and the bottles are away from bright light, but racks are great of course.

What about fine wines that need keeping for years?

For long term storage, frankly, unless you have a cellar or somewhere with cellar-like conditions (a constant cool temperature and humidity) it would be better to have your wines professionally stored. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape

Old World New World

2008-08-19T14:27:00.003+01:00

I often get asked “what’s the best wine you’ve ever had?” This is one of those questions. Whilst I’ve indulged in my share of Sassicaia, Yquem, Chateau Margaux etc, it’s just not that simple - place, people, food, ambience all play a big part. And incidentally those were all big name, Old World wines I mentioned, which brings up an interesting point. Old or New – what’s your poison, and what’s the difference?

In wine terms Old World/New World tends to mean Europe and everywhere else. Some people insist that Old World wines are more complex, foody wines, whereas New World are more lusty and fruit forward, often with too much alcohol. Well, this can be true. But if you called in at a tiny little winery not far from Melbourne airport called Craiglee, ignored the usual ‘closed’ sign, and banged on a barn door till Patrick appeared, you might be fortunate enough to sample one of the subtlest, softest glasses of Shiraz imaginable. Or take New Zealand, where people such as Felton Road or Mount Difficulty are producing complex, gamey Pinot Noirs to challenge anything from Burgundy. Similarly, some organic Coyam from Chile will stun you with its earthy depth and length, (and also happens to go quite nicely with very dark chocolate, funnily enough).

You can pick out obvious contrasts such as a gooseberry-laden, zingy Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in NZ, vs a flinty, lemony Sancerre, or indeed a surprisingly full Ronco del Betulle from Friuli – all the same grape, but quite different. But the truth is, there are great wines to be had all over the globe. A couple of things are certain. New World wines will tend to be labelled with the grape variety, whereas Old World wines usually state the place name – you have to know your grapes! Also the Old World’s attitude has traditionally been “we make this wine, it’s up to you if you like it..”, whilst the New World tends to make wines they know people want.

One really exciting region to explore is the Languedoc. Small producers, often free of AC strictures, able to experiment and develop highly individual, and attractive wines at amazing prices. Recommended wines: Chateau de Pennautier AOC Cabardes Collection Privee 2003; La Sauvageonne Pica Broca AOC Coteaux du Languedoc 2004

But I remember a beautiful evening in a tiny restaurant somewhere in rural Provence, with the best of friends, local food and local wines that had no pretensions and cost peanuts. Without question some of the best wines I ever had.

Tip.

Letting a wine ‘breathe’ for a bit before drinking by just uncorking it is a bit of an old wives tale. Not enough surface area for the oxygen to work on the wine. Pour it out into a decanter or jug, with lots of air, and this will help smooth the acids and tannins in a hurry, giving you a more mellow glassful. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape

Something For The English Summer?

2008-08-19T12:11:00.005+01:00

It’s hard to beat an English summer’s day – and equally hard to remember one sometimes. But no – the lightest of breezes, new mown grass, leather on willow - and when the barbie lights up, what will you be drinking? Often a cold beer is just the job, but what about wine? Rosé perhaps? No, don’t turn your nose up at the thought – by far the fastest growing wine style in the UK market is rosé, resulting in winemakers putting a lot more thought into it. Maybe some fizz, a chilled, bright white, or indeed a chunky red?

Well what I’m going to suggest may have some purists reaching for something to steady themselves, but read on anyway. For English summers, try English wine. I don’t mean exclusively of course, and not all English wine is worth the effort (in fact a lot of it isn’t). But there are over 300 vineyards throughout the UK, and some of them are producing very good stuff. You can forget the chunky reds (we don’t have the heat for them), but examples of fizz, white and rosé may really surprise you.

Geologically much of southern England is the same as Champagne in northern France, and the climate’s not dissimilar. They’ve recently had to expand the AC region of Champagne due to demand, but why not give English sparkling a try? The best is made in exactly the same way as champagne, with the same grapes, and in recent international blind tastings it’s been winning plenty of awards. Of course they’re not allowed to call it champagne (because it’s not made there), only ‘méthode traditionelle’. Recommended wines: Camel Valley, Nyetimber, or Ridgeview.

Good rosé has the grapes macerating on the red skins for a short while to get that lovely colour, before draining off – unlike a lot of rosé champagne which has a splash of red added and then ups the price for pinkness. Chapel Down English Rose from Kent fills the mouth with freshness, and almost has summer strawberries jumping out of the glass. For white, look for a grape called Bacchus (again Camel Valley’s a good bet), which will zing your taste buds like a decent sauvignon, and show well balanced fruit.

I’m not saying all English wine is great, just suggesting you give some a go. Waitrose stocks quite a bit, and there’s Booths Wine online – or why not visit one of the vineyards for a (hopefully sunny) day out.

Tip

The kitchen’s not a great place to store wine - too many extremes. It doesn’t have to be a cellar, but somewhere with an even temperature and little light is best. Sponsored by Taste Of The Grape

A Little Spanish

2008-08-19T11:35:00.008+01:00

Every now and then all is right with the world. It might be for only a moment – but such moments will always stay with you. Lets say you chance on a tiny little restaurant called “Dos Hermanos” baking in the Andalucian sun. You settle yourself in the shade of the vines, and one of the brothers (both in their sixties) limps out to tell you what’s available on the menu (most of it isn’t). So you agree to his choice, and he limps off into the kitchen to shout at his sibling. After dozing for a while with a half-hearted cicada for company, he reappears carrying a large platter of the most supremely fresh sole “a la plancha”, potatoes in olive oil, salad, and a bottle of crisp, chilled, aromatic Albarino (again his choice). It’s all so simple and delicious there’s only one option – you order more, plumply content and at peace with the world.

Mention Spain in a wine context, and a lot of people will think ‘Rioja’. Fair enough, there are some excellent Riojas with distinctive characteristics stemming from their strict rules of maturation, as in Crianza (nursery), Reserva, and Gran Reserva which all refer to age. But there are other fantastic wines and regions in Spain worth exploring – Priorato, Navarra, Penedes, Bierzo, Costers del Segre, and Ribera del Duero to name but a few. Or how about a Gewurztraminer from Somontano?

Albarino is produced in Rias Baixas, in Galicia, the green and fertile north west of Spain, where Atlantic breezes temper the climate, there’s plenty of rain to water the land, and the sea provides riches for the table. Raise a glass and aromas of peach, apricot, pear and citrus suggest something exotic, whilst the crisp, dry finish surprises with its freshness. It's the perfect partner to seafood, and is meant to be drunk young – as are most white wines by the way, so as to fully enjoy their zest and fruitiness.

Plus there’s cava and sherry. The former largely made in exactly the same way as champagne, but most often with Spanish grapes, can be a cracking little celebratory tipple, at a celebratory price too if you choose wisely - though quality does vary. The latter a very special, often underrated drink, made in it’s own unique way - see post on fortified wines.

From as elegant and light-footed as a matador, to as beefy and potent as the bull itself, the wines of Spain can offer it all.